The village of Dingac, on the Adriatic Sea, makes Croatia's most famous red wine - strong, heady stuff grown on precipitous seaside slopes from a grape known as Plavac Mali, a close relative of Zinfandel. Here, it's the same grapes, different wine. Consider this an anti-blockbuster: Not even 12 percent alcohol, it has the juicy, smoky red berries of a Zin but the body of a Beaujolais. It's beautifully uncomplicated.